ASD Dad

None. I dont believe we need a CAN BUS system on our vans. We're still pretty old tech vs. most vehicles!

That lake is beautiful in the last photo!

Nissan Commercial has chimed in officially to say to NOT put the seats in backwards even if you can get them to fit. It is on the FB NV Owners forum page. Many many did or wanted to do the mod but an automotive engineer chimed in about safety and a few people actually contacted Nissan Commercial about it. It most likely is safe since they are bolted to the same anchors but Nissan said the seats, latches, seatbelts, etc were never designed or tested rear facing. Your van, your rules, but wanted to let you all know Nissan actually chimed in on the mod.

I agree with Rad. Stick with Quigley or Advanced. They are the two specialists with the NV and that is a lot of money up front with a long term investment afterwards. Where in the Southeast are you? We're in the Greenville area of South Carolina.

I still have my original Nineo's installed. Like them! Zero issues and I use them a lot with all our dark back roads. I still think I want to add a lightbar or some other lights but I have been happy with these. I even got a second set in case I do have issues since a lot of these companies can come and go quickly.

I see more and more around me lately. There is a white passenger SV driven by a mom at my kids school. I see her in car line daily now. There is a new Java down the street from me I see often. The dad waves when he is driving, the mom wont. I have seen a red and blue one quite a bit lately. On our cross country trip I saw maybe 6-8 total! Seriously. We looked too just out of curiosity. It was definitely not more than 10! Figure over nearly 6000 miles we would see more. I saw a nice Advanced 4x4 SL with Aluminess rack, ladder, lights and a lift with big wheels and tires at our hotel at Disneyland. I never did see the family and I looked daily in the morning and evening. They never moved from their spot the entire time we were there.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/ctd/d/2012-sportsmobile-nv2500/6653694105.html ZERO knowledge of that van and it seems overpriced. Just passing it along.

That is a new one here. I know on aftermarket alarms they can do something like that if the alarm was triggered to let you know it went off while you had it armed/locked. Hopefully somebody knows.

NV stayed home (took the Sienna, double the gas mileage!) but we are back from the cross country trip. 13 states. 5806 miles and 6 National Parks visited. 2-1/2 weeks in total. Also went to Disneyland, Legoland CA and Seaworld. Trip went so well we are planning the next trip to go north - Yellowstone, Yosemite and Glacier among others.

Welcome to the site! I was a Solo 2 racer for about 15 years. Mainly did the NeOhio Region but also did NASA events at Nelson Ledges, Mid Ohio and BeaveRun. I mainly raced in Street Prepared and later in the ST classes. Took regional championships in my MR2 Spyder and RX8. Qualified for Solo Nats but never made it due to funding. Nice to see another cone dodger, I have not raced in a decade now unless you count indoor karting now and then! I am definitely not a ASE certified tech or engineer. I did do all my own work and have helped build from the ground up several road race cars with friends. I 100% agree that if a simple bolt on would yield positive results that the parent automaker would be doing it out of the box. They are always striving for more MPG or HP/TQ for little to no money. That said - there are proven multiple dyno run (back to back) results for many bolt ons that Do work in one way or another. My Spyder had a similar snorkel to the NV but it was even more restricted. It also had a convoluted exhaust in order to fit a giant muffler to keep noise to a min. Doing several back to back runs on the same day while swapping things out and even back in proved that there were given gains by changing to a free flowing exhaust layout and changing the intake setup. One issue you do run into is the ECU can learn that over time there is more air flowing and adjust to get things back to where it thinks it should be. You need to reset the ECU so it has to relearn or you can add on a bypass ECU or flash it with a new tune. Uprev is a popular Nissan tune that is flashed after tuning on a dyno. With THIS mod - the biggest issue I had was that the way it was designed it only directed airflow to that one edge of the filter. Removing the filter you can easily see that the one edge where the snorkel ended was very dirty while the rest looked clean. On the Titan forums there were several Nissan techs that claimed the snorkel design was for NVH reasons. I dont care about NVH! Removing it simply allows more of the filter to be used effectively (and adds a negligible amount of air volume as well as noise volume). Will it add 10hp and 10mpg? Nope. Not even close. Does it hurt MPG or HP? Not that I have seen. I have seen Nissan Titan dynos that show it has a tiny bump in HP/TQ. Does my filter now look more evenly dirty? Yes!

Pretty sure it will Not work. Only leveling kit I know of for our vans is available from Advanced 4x4 out in Salt Lake City UT. They use them on 4x4 conversions but will sell the kit by itself.

No issues with mine and it gets plenty hot here as well (2015, South Carolina). I transport adults and kids in the back rows a ton of they're always cool enough if I crank the AC when it's super hot. It gets loud from the fan noise but it is blowing plenty of air. I agree with above, check the return vent for blockage. At full speed the fan should be blowing decent air out. At quieter middle settings it does barely blow much out but not at 3/4 fan speed or more. The only other solution if you really had your heart set on keeping the NV is getting a small roof top AC unit like you see on Sprinters or small camper vans. That would absolutely cool the back down but would not be cheap.

All manufacturers do that. ALL. It is far worse on motorcycles, some of my old bikes were almost 10mph off at 70mph! They do it on purpose and have for many years. It should really only be off at most 5mph at highway speeds. It is less the slower you go and higher the faster you go. If you REALLY want it changed this is most likely your only option - http://www.hypertech-inc.com/SpeedometerCalibrator.aspx People use that when they have a drastic change like putting 33" mud tires on their Jeep and Trucks. No OEM manufacturer is going to calibrate it for you.

Agreed. I assume you have a smart phone. Next time it happens take a video of it. I had to do that when my radio went out (second time!) and they replaced it no questions asked when I showed them the video.

The only issue I have is why am I supposedly the only failure in 40 years. He said he has been doing the racks pretty much the same way and contractors abuse the daylights out of them. Mine sits empty 99.9% of the time and has failed twice. He was positive there had to be some sort of lateral tension twisting the bracket. There isn't. I can unbolt the rack from the brackets and easily lift it out or slide it fore and aft with no binding anywhere. I guess we will find out when I mount my own brackets. The last bracket only lasted 5 months but the original lasted a year and a half.

Yet Another update... The rack broke AGAIN!! This time both rear mounts broke. I think it has to do with how much body flex is going on with our rough roads. I can see the hood moving quite a bit and can hear squeaks a lot from the rack. The same/new mount snapped clean off and the other side was cracked 80% through. I went to remove it and it broke clean in half. The problem is that the mounts are Cast steel. They are not solid bar stock. They both broke in the exact same spot at the first one - right at the welds. I think the welds are making the steel brittle from heat and using the cheaper cast stock. I will NOT be getting new mounts. I am going to fabricate all new brackets the whole way around using solid steel stock. I did weld the two broken mounts back together and they have held for the past week but I dont trust them. EDIT: Talked at length with the owner of Topper. He said I have the first failure in 40 years. Not sure I believe that but I have no way to prove otherwise. Other issue is we've been going back and forth about the steel. It is NOT cast steel and I can see that now under close inspection. I think it could be a brittleness issue. The parts are plasma cut and then welded on both sides. That is putting a ton of heat into the thin stock twice and it could be heating it to the point of making it brittle. The brackets are not bending, they are cracking. They should not stress fracture like they are unless they are brittle. The stress fractures are occurring right along the weld bead to further prove the point. He does not know why they failed twice but he did offer to actually fly to my home from WI to personally look at the rack and failures. That seems way above and beyond customer service and I turned him down but appreciated the gesture. I dont see the point in him flying to my place when I've installed this rack three times now to make sure there is zero tension on those brackets (He thinks it is out of square or laterally binding). I still plan on fabricating my own heavier steel brackets.

That is pretty sweet looking. Did you do it yourself? I really like that pearl white color on the new NV's.

That must be one light and small trailer. I get 12 mpg not towing anything in my 2015 SL but I do have AT tires and a roof rack. I get 8 mpg towing the trailer in my sig line.

Looks great. Enjoy! I have those same running boards. Just beware they lower ground clearance quite a bit. I was worried when I installed them and I did bottom out hard last week going down a rutted access road. Bent both brackets on the driver's side but I pounded them back straight.

Happen to have the part number for said module? Where did you get it? Would be super helpful to many here.

Yes! The only issue and this is with any rack is that bolts will wiggle just slightly loose and the rack will start to rattle. That drives me nuts so I just snug things down when it starts doing it. I am not talking loose loose either, just looser than completely tight and it seems to start to rattle. Once snugged it is quiet for a couple months or so.

Welcome to the site!

My 2015 requires me to drop that panel. It comes off easily. I havent tried it without removing it though... I think it was like 4 easy access bolts to drop it. Made a mess the first time, filter drains right over a crossmember that has a little ramp to catch the oil. Still had oil places I didnt want!

Your problem is not related to the P0488 code. Your issue is fairly common and it has to do with the shape of the filler tube to the tank. Easiest way around it is to not fill at full speed, keep it around halfway. Also play with angle of gas nozzle. I only get the issue randomly and it is worse with some station nozzles vs. others but it is a common complaint.

Would help if you asked more specific questions - what kind of upgrades do you want? Appearance? Performance? Camping? Entertainment? Etc....