crusty

If you have a link, please share.

While there is a lot in common, the body is very different. And the bumper fits with the body shape. So while you may find one that will bolt to the chassis, it won't work with the body of the van.

Check out the carrier bearing on the driveshaft.

Bad fuel economy for the most part. 4400 pound axle rating is an odd number. Not typical of trailer axle manufacturers. Usually you will find 3500 of 5000 pound axle ratings in this area. The fact you went across the scales is good. Few ever do, most just guess. Often poorly. Keep on top of your maintenance, you will be using every bit of the severe service maintenance schedule. These vans are built as a commercial vehicle. Designed to be loaded to the roof and run there whole life maxed out. Maybe if you are really heavy, don't pick the super steep mountain pass on the hottest day of the summer and try to keep up with the hot babe in the red Ferrari. There will be some naysayers who will likely chime in with the sky will implode on you if you are one ounce over weight. Ignore them.

It converts 12V DC to 120V AC for the outlets right next to the invertor and the one in the console. It is a modified sine wave, not all electrical stuff is happy running on it. Only works when the engine is running and you remember to press the button on the dash. Most of the small fridge/freezers have a warning not to run on an invertor. They want either pure sine wave power or 12V DC. And they will run on 12V DC more efficient than going through the step up process to 120V first. That heavy 12V wire is a power wire to the front. But it is sized to run the invertor. Not the invertor and an amp.

Has a great big one. Don't need to add or change anything. The bypass valve in the cooler is actually for cold temps. It bypasses most of the fluid when cold and only when warm does the bypass close and actually flow through the cooler. Nissan has been running these for decades. Useful to get the transmission up to temp in cold climates.

Frame may be close, but the body is completely different. The bumper to body interface will be completely wrong. But a 2012 VW Routan cabin air filter also fits the full size NV vans.

Not sure what panel you are talking about. Picture?

I've been using a basic reflective sunshade in various vehicles for the past 20 years. But the NV2500 windshield is so much larger than what I have used in the past. Anyone know of a sunshade that fits? Hoping to find some experience before doing the best guess buy. And if you have one to avoid, let know about that as well. Not looking for the fancy fitted thermal super privacy camping things. Just the quick toss across the windshield when parked to keep some of the summer sunload out of the interior. Something like (random stolen off the internet image)

2021 is exactly the same as 2019. Making new videos every year for the same old product is time consuming and expensive so it is rarely done.

Looking at what you describe, there is a very minimal electrical load. No, you don't need a bigger alternator. Adding a second battery? Batteries only charge so fast. Just because you have more potential (high output alternator) doesn't mean that the battery will accept a charge any faster. Only if you get to the point where the alternator is running 100% will the alternator output be the limiting factor. Even then that doesn't mean it won't charge, just the charge rate is slower. When the power consumed exceeds the power generated, that is a time you need a bigger alternator. In that case the battery will be discharging even though the alternator is running full power. If you figure what the running power is, fuel pump, EFI, A/C compressor, A/C fan, secondary condensor fan, lets turn on the headlights and the wipers as well. Driving at night in a hot thunderstorm. You are probably drawing ~70A of power? That is still 50A or so of charge potential. Now if you add a winch, that is a HUGE power sucker. The big amp alternator can power a large portion of what a winch will take, in this case taking the stress off the battery. On a hard pull with a big alternator the amp load on the battery might only be 150A instead of 250A. So the big pull doesn't pull as much out of the battery, so you can make a bigger pull on the same size battery.

The ball is a horrible ground. The 7-pin has a ground. Hook up the ground on the trailer plug to the trailer frame. This type of horrible trailer wiring is why Nissan isolated the factory trailer plug from the primary vehicle wiring. So when you have a messed up trailer wiring it won't take out the vehicle lights. Also why you really should use the factory trailering harness and never use the quick tap into the tail lights universal stuff. Nothing wrong with the van. Only the lack of a proper ground on the trailer.

No OEM has constant power to a USB. The issue is the USB is 5V, so there has to be a circuit driver to keep that 5V ready to use. Problem is that is a (very small) drain on the battery. The motorcycle forums people try it and it is enough to run a motorcycle battery down in a few days. Car battery would take longer, but still it is a drain. It would be a source of "no start after sitting for a few weeks". I have a plug into the power outlet USB adaptor, also have solar to keep things charged. Planning on doing the same to the NV when I get a chance.

Your NV350 is COMPLETELY different from the North American NVs on this site. Not going to find answers here. For everyone else who overlooked the NV350 and thought they read NV3500, here is a right hand drive JDM NV350

Anything except white in a cargo is extremely rare. Just letting you know why you are not finding them.

rivnut

If you have the factory trailer hitch the wiring is super simple, it's right in the 7-pin trailer plug. If you are trying to tap off the lights themselves I would use some caution since the circuit isn't sized to handle extra power. The trailer wiring is isolated from the regular wiring and can draw more power and not mess with any of the original circuits.

Don't expect any fuel economy. Especially if you are looking for more power out of it. You are not dealing with a choked carburetor anymore. Intake is already really good. Better than 99% of the so called cold air performance intakes. and with such limited offerings for the van, just leave it stock. Open element air filters are really good at letting in lots of dirt and hot air. Exhaust there are some power gains. But no off the shelf exhaust kits.

If you look at the original poster's profile, they have not been active in nearly a year and a half. Don't expect a response. This thread is 5 years old. Models have probably been added and removed in that time. Even if it was the same model number it might be very different now.

If they are asking 14k-16k axle ratings, something is seriously wrong. The front axle rating is WAY less than that. Someone is looking in the wrong place if they think those are the choices. Open the driver's door and look at the label. It will list the front axle weight rating, the rear axle, and combined. The only thing not listed is the Gross Combined Weight Rating, that is the weight of the van and trailer combined. That info is in the owner's manual. You will have to check if you have the V8. Can't answer that for you. The 2500 could have that or the V6. Tow package, walk around back and look if there is a 2" square hole below the rear bumper. If you have that, that is where the hitch slides in and you have the tow package. Generally the V8 always has it and the V6 is optional. No hitch, no tow package. The hitch and the wiring that goes with it are all there is to the tow package.

Take it back to the dealer. Mention that if they don't fix it, they can buy you a new set of tires. It's in warranty. If that fails, contact Nissan customer service and complain about the dealer. Nissan hates dealers that treat customers poorly. And you will get corporate breathing down the dealers back. Remember the dealer is an independent franchise. All they do is resell Nissan product. They are no way owned by Nissan. If the dealer sucks too much, they risk loosing the franchise. About the only dealership that is owned by the manufacturer in the united states is Tesla. And in many states they cannot sell because they are not going through a dealer. And more states they are running as an exemption to dealership laws. In other countries auto dealers are run by the manufacturers.

Lots of highway time in both. Find the Nissan way more comfortable. Better than some new pickups. Weight + high roof, the V8 could actually net you better mileage over the V6. The V6 was marginally better for economy over the old V8, the new V8 and transmission has a noticeable improvement.

7500 pound trailer? Regular towing? Get the V8 Unless you have actually run that trailer across a set of scales when fully loaded I bet it weighs more than that. Most people horribly underestimate the weight of what they put in a trailer.

Leave the 5th tire away from the van as you program. It will be forced to only see 4 sensors. The system can only accept 4 sensors so once they are programmed the 5th will have to be ignored. I don't know if the system will learn a new sensor during the rotation programming? But programming tools are getting a lot more affordable these days, that WILL work.

The newer engine isn't as new as you may think. It and the 7-speed were in the market starting with the 2011 QX56. So those have nearly 10 years to get them right. The '11 had a few bugs, but generally good after that. Having driven both, the new V8 and 7-speed is the one to get. It's what I am hoping to add to my personal collection. Like the ones at work too much.