Local Apparent Friday

We're bouncing around all over the place rn. We started with Lean bank and misfire codes, but now it's EVAP leak and Rich codes. Your lean/misfire problem I have experience with. I have not had EVAP troubles with mine, as I knock on my wooden desk. Do you have vacuum pumps and the requisite knowledge to work through this?

Yah so start by finding the leak. Fix that and then retest, proceed. https://www.liveabout.com/find-and-fix-evaporative-emissions-leak-4163502

I am inclined to lean towards the VVT solenoid...I had the same generic "random misfire" code with no specific cylinder listed. I'd probably start there if you can manage. Edit: Just saw you edited it to say that it is showing right bank only. That's the same as mine, and that it is bank specific eliminates the possibility of it being induction or fuel related. Check your VVT solenoid, lmk if you need to know how. You're describing exactly what happened to me.

Ah k. A couple things, first I use and recommend OBDLink products that lay functionally between harbor freight and full diagnostics like SOLUS. I personally have the LX that I scored on ebay for $34. Anyway, that aside, here are my thoughts: You mentioned specifically it starting after you fueled, we are not immune to bad gas in this day and age of shortages, so I would have the dealership check fuel pressure the next time your in. In the meantime, and assuming you are handy, 1. Disconnect the battery leads and ground out the caps for 30 mins. That video is not NV specific but the information is relevant. 2. Relearn the TB. This is likely not to work if you are still throwing codes when you fire it up to warm it up. 3. In my specific case, I was able to determine that it was just my right bank that was throwing lean codes...I could watch the misfires count up on the OBDLink up until it broke the 6k threshhold and thew a code. Ultimately, it was the VVT solenoid that was jammed, possibly from some debris that had gotten stuck in the plunger during my parts swap. Using a test bench and some brakleen, I was able to clear the plunger and it solved my issue. If you need details on how to do this, LMK. You will need a 10mm socket and a test bench, which can be as simple as a couple jumper wires and a battery. I hope that helps, post back and let's see if we can get you through this. -laf

Do you have your own code reader that will let you read active engine parameters? Was it bank specific, IE 1/3/5/7 or 2/4/6/8?

So one thought is that the fuel filter might be clogged, specifically since you mentioned fueling. Do you know if the dealership put a pressure gauge on the line? I would also begin by checking the induction system...making sure all the hoses are connected and clamped, and that the MAF is clean and properly connected, what is the condition of the air filter, etc. That wasn't my issue, but I'm still racking my brain and those are some ideas to get you started. I am also assuming that there were never and DTCs, stored or pending? Thanks, -laf

Let me ruminate on this for a bit...I had a similar issue after swapping my engine and I remember it not making sense since there is no throttle cable or accelerator pump. Give me a bit to think through and read back through my swap thread, it's been a couple weeks.

Is this uniquely related to AZ, as in did you own it and it worked fine for the time that you were in Maine (besides the cyl7 issue?)

Thanks! It was the closest flat spot that seemed logical. Had the 110 outlet fit in the square space in the middle of the dash toggles, I would have put it there and then replaced the aux cig lighter with the second 12v outlet since we don't use the aux jack/usb but, alas, the outlet was too big to fit flush and the harness would have had to be extended. On the side of the console there they are out of the way enough that they won't get hit by our legs, which is good. I ALMOST had a swivel base, but unfortunately it got tossed before I could snag it. Alas, the hassles getting it to work with the fridge would have made it tedious, and also there's now a subwoofer under my passenger seat. -laf

So I just did a little bit of audio install and these are my observations on a '14 cargo; The radio has the fade control front to back despite not being equipped with rear speakers. The rear speakers are not pre-wired throughout the chassis and, unfortunately, the wires also do not exist at the radio out on the harness. I'll end up either adding the pins myself or buying a cut out harness to put in place for my audio install. -laf

Rock auto shows the 553004 Monroe in stock. If you reread Bamps post, his problem was with his spring compressors, not the Monroe struts. And yes... you just move the spring from one to the next. Best to have a professional do it if you aren't familiar with the process...it can be very dangerous. -laf

Throwing this up here separate from the buildout thread to make it more accessible. Our van has the power inverter and 12v cigarette style sockets in the center console. As much as I love the cavernous console, my wife scored a great deal on a refrigerator that will replace the console, which makes the most sense from a spacial standpoint and will do double duty as an armrest. This is not unique, plenty of people have done this, but I didn't want to lose the outlets. What I DID do was relocate them to the pax side of the front cup holder console. Also, the console outlet is 12v constant, so you can use this to power your fridge off your start battery if you have battery protection! Sorry that the pics are a little light, I was flying through this in the rain. Ask questions please if you need clarification. Cost: $0 dollars Time: ~ 1 hour Materials: None additional needed Tools: 1 1/8" drill bit Phillips screwdriver Razor knife Jigsaw 10mm socket Ratchet/Extension Okay so start by removing the main center console, there are 6 10mm bolts, two in the front lower cup holders, 4 in the bottom of the main compartment. Tilt the console back and unplug the harness located next to the front left foot of the driver's seat. You will see where it goes through the floor mat. Also, unclip the white harness retainers from the underside of the console leading to the outlets. Open the console, and separate the entire top trim panel from the bottom and set aside. Grab the top of the black panel holding the outlets, and lift it straight up. It is clipped in. Unplug the harness from the back of the outlets, push the tabs on the backside and remove the outlets from the face of the trim panel. Here's a couple pics to illustrate how it goes together. Again, sorry for the shabbiness on the pics. Next, remove the lower black cupholder trim from the forward console by pulling it straight up, then remove the lower panels on either side of the front lower of the console. There will be one to the right of the gas pedal, the other to the left of where your ankle would be if you were riding shotgun. To get the passenger side off, you need to remove the glove box and trim as if you were changing the cabin air filter (7 Phillips screws.) There are push pins at the back end and then dog ears on the front, just grab the back part and pull. This will expose 2 phillips screws on either side of the lower cup holder console. Remove those, and the entire lower cup holder, trim and frame, will come out. Keep it together, use a sharpie to mark the open space on the backside where the frame does not cover. if you scroll down one more pic, you can see where I drew another horizontal line to accent the change in gradient from flat to rounded...I wanted to make sure everything was on the "flat" part so that it would fit great and look factory. Next, mark your center point for your desired placement. You can flip the black panel over, hold it up, and trace with a sharpie, then use your 1-1/8" drill bit to drill your two holes. Clean up the edges with a razor knife, try not to slice it like i did. There is a little bump out on the cigarette lighter outlet you can whittle with the knife, but you're basically done with that one, 1-1/8 is the correct size (I used a wood paddle bit.) For your 110vac outlet, use a jigsaw to get from a round hole to a square one, again there is an alignment notch that you have to put in for the outlet to snap in place. Take your time, and it'll look factory (minus my big slice mark.) Lastly, reconnect the harness, lead it forward under the mat and up from the bottom. Reinstall the lower console, push your outlets in (if you've already snapped them in, it WILL go back together, just be careful not to break it when working around the back of the outlets,) plug the harness into the back (it's plenty long enough to reach,) and push the black trim back in place. While I was there, I removed the mystery plug taped to the harness as well as the no-longer-necessary plastic alignment pins. At some point in the future I will add plastic protector loom, but that's basically it. Have fun.

@joea try it now, Crutchfield is showing options for what you're looking for.

Sounds like an off-axis nightmare. How did this end up turning out?

Got off on a sidequest exploring engine mods and found this neat video of a vk56de stuffed in an s14 with a dope body kit.

Quick reminder though... you have to pull the DRL relay fuse if you're installing LED headlights. It's fuse #3 in the under-hood fuse box, passenger side up against the firewall. It has to go bc DRLs switch the bulbs to wired in series and drops the voltage to 6vdc, which will kill LEDs and generally wreak havoc.

@exE350 if you're still looking for something peer reviewed, I followed my own advice and went through the 1000+ list that I referenced above, ultimately deciding on Torchbeam T2s from Amazon. I put them in tonight, can confirm that they fit great, make a bunch of light, and do a good job of patterning. I'm actually realizing after installing these that I can bump my lights up a bit. Much tighter than the halogen I was running, and I can see quite a bit further on high beam.

Make sure your door seals are all clean...gunk collects and grows on the tops of them. Also, the earlier vans are at the age where door seals have flattened out or been torn...replacements are readily available.

It's nothing you can reset yourself. The car has to be connected to diagnostic software. Here is the part.

Neat and welcome! I read a thread on here about someone doing something similar in the fullsize vans a while back. I gather people do this in order to watch trailer loads and whatnot. Another option is to install one of these aftermarket mirror cams. I put one in for a family member one time, very clear screen and it records front and rear camera inputs to an onboard SD card....handy in an accident or with road raging drivers, etc. Thanks for joining the forums and welcome! - laf

I don't think disconnecting the passenger side would turn the driver's side off, but don't quote me on that. I know there are airbag "trick" harnesses...how handy are you electrically? Also, welcome! - laf

So the Titan XD is a completely different rear end. Based on the compatibility chart that I posted (which could be a nissan misprint,) it looks like the actual NV rear end has found it's way into the '22+ Titan. Sure...you'd have to swap axles to stay 8 lug and the track width is likely narrower but, theoretically, all the innards would work with custom axles, which you would have built anyway. I'd expect to spend less than a grand for custom cut axles, plus about a grand for the LSD or locker with install kit/fluid/etc. Running out the door again, but yukon or branik seem the most likely for axles. We'll see...I was pretty impressed with how the E-trac or whatever they call it did on the beach.

Could there be light at the end of the locking rear differential tunnel? In trying to order some parts, I came across a single clue...the rear differential gasket part number AND diff cover are listed as also fitting a slew of 2022 Titans...I am running out the door but perhaps there is hope for rear axle modifications on the way, either via Nissan parts or aftermarket, or perhaps we will forever be in limbo, as there was a recent report that the titans are disappearing in 2024. Time will tell, but this seems like a glimmer of hope and the first sign of life for this topic in 4 years. :cuemysticalmusic: - laf

Yes, "steering wheel position sensor."

Neither...we were staying at a beach house but I have too much to do, so we took the van to A)shake it down after the engine install and B)continue with the work list.