Local Apparent Friday

Yah, what crusty said, and then there's the matter of the ECM as well. There are a ton of these floating around on facebook now with damage for parts...at minimum, snag a whole front cut and get everything you need at once, or just sell/trade up. FWIW, these are not a huge platform for modification, and enthusiasts are few and far between. If I had a V6 and given the availability and tunability via uprev, I would probably explore forced induction before I looked at a swap, depending on my end goals. What is your use case? -laf

Lol welcome back! Best of luck with the build.

FYI the workhorse isn't a good choice for you since you mentioned winter driving. Try the BFG KO2's, I ran those in Maine on a different vehicle and liked them a lot. There are a slew of budget brands too that are perfectly fine, just noisy as they wear. Honestly I'd buy used tires before I bought passenger tires. Best,

So the P's will not take more than 44 pounds of air, and are not rated for the load. Somebody was just asking this on Facebook too, except they had already ordered the wrong tires. In that thread, someone mentioned knowledge of someone that had had a P blow out spontaneously on an NV. I have no direct knowledge of that, but honestly is it worth it? It might hold, it might not. Let's do the pros and cons: Pros: you save $100. Cons: The tire spontaneously explodes and causes the vehicle to swerve violently and you hit a child on the curb, who is now maimed for life. The family sues you, and your insurance declines to cover you on your liability because you had passenger car tires on a 1 ton van. You are now millions of dollars in debt, for life. Dramatic? Absolutely. Plausible? 100%. Spend the $100. I actually just logged in to look for tire reqs as I'm looking for a highway tire to save my expensive ass BFGs that I'm running on the highway for no reason to get to the track hauling MY bikes. It's a fact of life, my guy. I'm personally looking at the Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse at about $250, if that helps, but I don't think anybody here is going to assume the liability of telling you it's a good idea. Best of luck with whatever you decide though. -laf

Let your wife drive. Mine bests me by about 1.5mpg on average.

Check to make sure the ac drain hose isn't clogged. That is the common cause of this when it's not wx dependent.

@Jay586 As Crusty said, we are unfortunately a mostly USDM forum. I did a quick facebook search though and found a group that may be helpful. Feel free to come back and post your adventures when you get your van, happy to have international outreach. Best of luck! -laf

Not to jack the thread, but we almost exclusively use a website called freecampsites.net. As @radin2son said, the forestry department offices will sell you enough maps to fill your NV, or you can download them online for free for most fed AND state parks. For that, we use the Avenza Maps app recommended by the forestry department. FreeRoam and Campendium are other options, although we don't use those much. Most of our stays are abandoned CCC camps, fire roads, public land, etc. - laf

Probably because it was so dismal, they didn't want people noticing it on the test drives. ?

Killer pics! All our adventures since the beginning of the year have been to race tracks. Your view is much better.

Do we even know how to reset the TPMS? I bolted mine on in the wrong locations...luckily I'm coming up on 10k miles so I can just put them in the right place this time. ?

Every time I see pics of this build, I want to go tear the inside out of my van and start over.

Kinda funny that the rear is exact fit and the slider is modified, bc the rear looks like a bunched up mess, and the slider looks like a perfect fit.

The axxess modules are for retaining steering wheel controls with aftermarket decks.

What?

?Thanks for the shoutout. I ALSO did my drive belt, and am currently in the process of replacing the driveshaft carrier bearing.

110 is hardly high mileage. Regardless, I typically change all fluids when I get a new-to-me vehicle, to include rear diff/trans/brake fluid/oil/coolant flush. Is it all completely necessary? Not at all, but it sets a baseline for me so that I know what's what from that point on, plus I do my own work, so I get my hands and eyes on everything. Other things I would look at at 100k would be plugs, air filters including adding the cabin filter, and potentially shocks/struts. Sounds like a killer deal, should be a great van for you. Enjoy and welcome to the forums. -laf

If you ever decide to change focus, you'd make a lot more in marine systems! Have a great trip.

There is a primary distribution block under the hood, passenger side, up against the firewall. Black cover pops off.

Heh. Do you, by any chance, work in marine systems? Damn nice work.

The 75's appear to be OE on the 17+, so you should be fine since the chassis is the same. I went up to 285, but can't remember if i'm 70 or 75. Van is down now with the trans pulled out, but when I'm there again I'll look at the tire size and check.

Do you have the vent closed, IE set to max ac recirculation instead of fresh air? That seems to be the difference for me in whether or not air blows when it's off. Re: the actuator, haven't had to replace, but you certainly wouldn't need to remove dash. Once you remove the glove box, you have access to the entire air box.

It's white. Touchup paint should be no problem. I drive my NV through the woods and scratch the hell out of it without issues. But I also am not about to run a pressure washer on anything other than a dirtbike. You could consider a paint protective film, if you live in an area prone to rocks and debris and want to be preventive.

No problem, enjoy.

The next 5k change, 10 since engine swap/catch can install. Changing at 5k intervals despite running mobil 1 full syn high mileage, given that most of our miles are either towing or offroad boondocking. Changed the wool out this time bc it was nasty compared to the first 5k.