Local Apparent Friday

It's white. Touchup paint should be no problem. I drive my NV through the woods and scratch the hell out of it without issues. But I also am not about to run a pressure washer on anything other than a dirtbike. You could consider a paint protective film, if you live in an area prone to rocks and debris and want to be preventive.

No problem, enjoy.

The next 5k change, 10 since engine swap/catch can install. Changing at 5k intervals despite running mobil 1 full syn high mileage, given that most of our miles are either towing or offroad boondocking. Changed the wool out this time bc it was nasty compared to the first 5k.

Here is the thread where the firestone kit is shown to have been successfully installed on an nv.

Sure, no problem. The only other name brand they might recommend are the gabriel, but the monroe are listed as heavier duty. Best of luck.

According to the wix site, the 57356 is also the recommended filter for the 4.0l, so yes, the 51344 should work without issue.

Bilstein has no drop in. If you're worried about the ride amd weight, id look at the titan airbag adaptation in addition to the Monroe.

K so for the rears, your name brand choices are Gabriel G64164 or Monroe 66420, with the Monroe being the heavier duty. For the front, Monroe 553004.

So, while I do see that they offer a king shock upgrade, looking at the directions, it looks like their lift kit is designed to use factory struts and shocks. As such, why not just go that route? Monroe makes a strut for the front, and the rear you can get either monroe or gabriel. You can also go OEM if you want to drop coin. Hold up i'll get part numbers for you.

Skip copart too unless you want to pay fees. Find a local yard on carpart and buy a DE there, simplest and easiest. I went this route, and bought 100k mile engine with a warranty for $1200, IIRC, but I could have bought as new as 35k miles. If you haven't already read my thread, you ideally want an NV engine. If you go with a titan/armada, you'll need to swap some parts from your engine to the new one. The physical engine swap is easy.

@mahuyah man. Sounds like the booster is toast.

No problem. You can get butyl tape as well, which is easier to work with and should also have no problem sealing this off.

Anybody going to any east coast track days this season, or running ASRA/CCS or WERA races? Looking to catch up if so.

Ouch

Gabriel, Monroe, Or OEM are your choices. Iirc the Monroe are listed as the heavy duty on rock auto. I have the sonic as well. I don't think they make the light duty one for the full size van.

What you're looking for is called WindoWeld by 3M, comes in a caulk tube at most automotive stores. Sticky stuff... don't get it on you.

@Nick NV guy If you are just wanting to keep the van as is, then replacements are readily available. Mine was broken as well, most of the ones I have seen are, but I have only really been looking at high top cargo vans, so obviously the work life takes a toll. The cheapest I have found is via Hart Nissan in VA, but someplace closer to you might have it cheaper by the time you factor in shipping. If you have a buildout or are planning a buildout, then you will likely box the step out in something much more attractive. Welcome to the forums! edit: Here is the link for the step. $40 Oh and if you're patient, NNA runs a number of 15% off sales throughout the year, OR you can sign up for their MVP program for free and get discount codes that way as well, if you don't want to wait.

Also pre or post '16

Do you want my spare intake? Where abouts are you located?

I have never heard of this either. Do you happen to have a v8? If so, I happen to have a spare intake. -laf

Sweet van. Welcome!

The factory inverter has some mechanism that limits the output when the vehicle is in drive vs park. I do not know if this is done in the inverter itself, or somewhere upstream. Are you sure you're getting the full throughput to the orion? This may be a non-issue since you removed the inverter, I am not sure. But I would try connecting directly to the battery and bypassing everything else to see if you get the same results. If you do, I would be exchanging the orion at that point. Sorry I'm not much help...dealing with a skipped timing chain on the race bike rn.

Agree with Crusty. Test your start battery, test your alternator, use a DMM to measure resistance on all your connections, report back. Also curious...has this setup performed as designed in the past and is now causing issues, or is this a new install? From the 12/12-30 manual re:smart alts: "Suitable for use in vehicles with a smart alternator (Euro 5 and Euro 6 engines) The built-in engine shutdown detection will stop the converter when the engine is not running. This prevents unwanted discharge of the starter battery (see manual for details)." Also of note, if you end up needing to replace alternator, HO versions exist in the $2-300 range.

Victor put them in the plastic door trim inside the mirror, looking at his photo album. Screw on pods like you're asking about DO exist, look to the SQ world, but IMO they look janky unless you glass your own A pillar pods, which is pretty easy using MDF and fabric. Tweets will fit in the stock location with some slight mods if you want a hidden look....at some point you basically have to decide with SQ how far down the rabbit hole you want to go. @8DeepInTx Mt's/Sps...that's a lot of coin to drop on a pair of tweeters, what are the rest of your system specs?

Yah I was waiting to see if @TxRax was going to come back, but I guess not. I'll move it to accessories and mods for the time being, since I am at least vouching for him being real, having seen many happy customers on the fb groups.