aztec

Catch cans are another "depends on who you ask" question. Some people swear by them, others think they are a waste. If you don't hack up the PCV plumbing installing it, or source spares for any lines you do chop, there is no way for anyone to tell it was ever installed, so warranty is not an issue. I have seen no claims they hurt, plenty they help, and plenty they are worthless. I run techron as preventive maintenance. I know it works as I've fixed injector issues with it. Redline is another brand that uses the same solvent. Someone told me the concentrations are higher in redline, and I've had success with that as well. Try a Titan forum for more in depth discussions. Same motor, broader audience. Your best defense is always going to be running quality fuel. Alcohol free if you're lucky enough to live in a place where reason prevails over political idiocy.

Reasonable question. Depends on who you ask. If it bothers you, run heavier, low volatility oil, add a catch can to the pcv circuit, and add techron every few thousand miles.

Plugging something into the trailer socket usually shuts them up.

I found this helpful link https://adw.org/about-us/resources/request-an-exorcism/

The connections are under the floor covering near the right front driver's seat hold down bolt. You can get to them without removing the seat. Removing the console is not hard. Four bolts in the bottom of the main compartment and two in the forward most tray. When you locate the connector, you might decide to take the bolts out of the console first for ease of access. It's tight in there and taking the stress off the floor covering could be helpful.

Have you disconnected the multi pin connectors to check for corrosion?

Air filter getting wet? Just spitballing here...

Might be something in the traction control circuit. Sensor or computer issue. Have you looked at the wheel sensors? Easiest/cheapest thing to fix. Also, any rodent excrement on top of your engine? Chewed wire could be in play.

There is a trim panel on each side just forward of the cup tray. Those panels are fiddly. They have both snap in connections and tabs/slots, so you need to release the snaps and slide the tabs out. If memory serves, the tabs are up and to the front of the vehicle.

There are two screws per side behind the trim panels.

The most common fail is the contact pins. I'd start there.

It will be if Nissan bucks the trend and lets the good stuff trickle down into the van platform. Pickups are the profit centers for most outfits and they are hesitant to compete against themselves.

One of the control modules handles that schedule. Good luck hacking it. You could Rube Goldberg the thing and put a timer/relay on the unlock button. That or hit the unlock button on the fob to turn them back on as needed. You can add lights but the power source has to come from the cab so far as I know. I dug around, looked at wiring diagrams, tested a few wires, and came up with nothing in the cargo area for DC power.

Does your manual shift function work?

Does your manual shift function work?

Clear! Bzzzzzzzt. OK, got a pulse.

Yes, it looks like a shoe. I don't think there is much debate about that.

The real issue is reliability. Ford and Fiat have disastrous records. The NV, while comparably low on available features, works.

Correct. No cover.

This site is on life support as it is. That said, keep in mind the oldest NV out there is what? 6 years old? As they age and things inevitably fail, it's possible things will pick up as people search for answers. Today's random thought: Has anyone considered putting a Nike swoosh logo on their van? Given it looks like a shoe and all?

It started after they changed the tires/struts? Maybe they effed up the strut job or the rear tires just need to wear in a bit. Sometimes new tires can feel squirmy. Or maybe they put the wrong tires on. Shops are capable of anything, especially if they are dealer service departments.

It's under warranty? Have you tried rebooting it? If memory serves you hold down the power button.

I was able to fix my door by tightening a cable. Worth a try. If you skin the inside of the door and look at the central hub for the latching system, there is only one adjustable cable bracket. Tighten that one.

If it started right after the brake job, one of the the rotors might be out of spec. Did you put them on yourself? Edit: To the OP and anyone else having brake judder on long downhill runs, I experienced that on my F150, E150, T1N, and Transit. Fine everywhere else, long downhill = judder. Fine on fresh kit, but as soon as they get some mileage on them, there is one particular hill that always triggers it. I've decided it's a truck thing and stopped being concerned about it.

Affected vehicles: NV built before: 5BZAF0(***)KN 851114 // January 15, 2019