aztec

I was bemused to say the least. I thought gentle acceleration and slower freeway speeds would have an effect. No so much. On the plus side, tearing up going over mt. passes at 80 doesn't seem to bother it either.

11.7 mpg avg for the first 3k miles in my 3500sl high top. Mixed driving. Probably 60% or more freeway. 75 to 80 mph on a clear road. I have ladders on the roof and about 1,500 -1,750 lbs of cargo. Regular gas. Other data: The range meter starts flashing 2 dashes after it gets below about 45 miles. Within the next 20 miles the needle is buried on empty, as in you can see a gap between the last line on the gauge and the needle. I've never been able to put more than 24.5 gallons in it. Comforting in it's own way. In my Transit Ecoboost of similar dimension, I was lucky to see 14, though that engine, if babied, could do a lot better. The NV doesn't seem to care what I do with my foot. Tried being very gentle for a tank, no change. Never seen 300 miles on a tank.

Federal warranty on cats is 8/80. So if the OP has under 80k, it should be covered. https://www.ncconsumer.org/news-articles-eg/federal-extended-emissions-warranties-are-often-forgotten-or-overlooked.html

Inside my center console, taped back to the harness that feeds the 12v and inverter plugs, is a third capped off plug. Nothing in the wiring diagrams seems to indicate what it might be for. Heated seat for the passenger version is all I can think of. Anyone got a clue? Edit: Never mind. Got in there deep enough to see the thing clearly and it was just an empty connector taped to the harness. No wires, just the plastic plug. Weird.

Not necessarily a bad thing. I'll take error correction over "improvement" any day.

I have no use whatsoever for dealer service departments, but in their defense, in this specific instance, it's a design flaw. Nissan is aware of the problem and issued a service bulletin instructing the dealers to not replace parts, only adjust the rear upper and lower strikes. I tried that a couple of times to no avail. I did not try every possible direction to move the strikes. In the middle of the process I found a youtube video where some interesting soul had turned the front strike 180º and claimed it fixed his issue. I tried this and the door jammed so badly I could not get it open with my usual trick of holding down the door release button inside the van and hip checking the door. I had to take off the inner door panel and fiddle with the mechanism. I discovered the lower (middle of the door) rear latch was the culprit. To fix it I took the slack out of the cable to that latch. Mercifully, of the six cables and additional actuator rods, that cable is the only one with an obvious, simple adjustment bracket. Now, if the door binds up, I have enough leverage on that latch to get it to release. Maybe mention that to them. Interestingly, somewhere in the process I managed to eliminate the binding issue for now. I used to be able to bind up the door on command by "almost" closing it. With the cable tightened, I tried several times to replicate the issue and was not able to. So perhaps this is the ultimate fix for my specific van. Good luck. It's certainly annoying.

Thanks. That's fine. I was concerned someone would view the video before reading my comments. I'd hate to be responsible for someone screwing up their van.

still don't see any delete option. Oh well, the video is useful for anyone wanting to see the inner workings of the latch hardware, and it certainly motivated me to fix the issue. For these reasons I am grateful to the guy who made it. Just please don't follow his advice. I don't know know if tightening that cable is the cure or a bandaid. What I do know is it stopped the bleeding. I'd like to know if anyone found an adjustment to the door latches themselves which stops the thing from binding in the first place and needing a bit more cable pull to unlatch.

You're welcome. This issue has been a thorn in my side. Brand new van and this happens. I read the TSB from Nissan. What a joke. "Adjust the door." Maybe redesign the latch so it does't fail? I'm still going to slam the thing, but it's nice to know if I'm pointed uphill and inadvertently give it a light hit, I can now open it to try again without having to go inside and body slam the thing.

Mod deleted **Sorry to anyone who tries this. It doesn't work. If someone knows how to delete this video from the post let me know and I'll do it.** I traced the issue with the slider jamming to the center rear latch. The cable to that latch has a bracket which allows tension adjustment. Tightened it up and good to go. Can't make the door latch bind up anymore. Tried ten times. Color me happy. This has been my only complaint on my 3500, and it's done it since new. maybe the video is useful. The offending cable is lowermost in the image, and the adjuster is hiding behind the guy's hand.

I needed battery power in the cab. I looked at the upfitter pass throughs. I would need to source the connection hardware at both ends and run wire under the hood as well. I have the tow package, so I used the trailer brake controller connection located next to the upfitter connections behind the kick panel. That connection has B+ and ground. I already had a pigtail for that connector as it came with the van. Still need to source ignition power in the cargo area. At this point I'm deciding whether to go off the cargo light circuit or do the work and get a wire to the 12v socket harness in the center console. Unless someone has a better idea.

Anything in particular you want to see?

Installed a Legend fleet KK plus plywood floor in my high roof. Brilliant. Perfect fit (the one in my Transit required trimming). Includes pre-drilled holes and hardware to secure it to the D-ring mounting points (and/or re-install the D-rings.) Also comes with longer bolts and holes for the tire jack base and diamond plate sills for the side and rear doors. I also got another Sortimo ABS partition. That was a bit more interesting. Required cutting off the back third of the B pillar covers. Instructions, all 20+ pages of them, were clear and reasonably accurate. Odd thing, my last Sortimo used metric hardware. This one came with 1/4-20. Another weirdness, they said to use a rotary saw to trim the B pillar covers. huh? It's straight cuts on plastic. Scored them with a fresh handy knife blade, slit the paper thin reinforcement webbing underneath, and snapped off the excess. Much easier and more accurate. Now Adrian Steel also makes an ABS partition. After installing this Sortimo I'd venture that offering is probably worth a look. If you've never had a solid ABS partition, imagine passenger car noise levels and all the heat and A/C stays in the cab. Joy. Also, they are dished to provide plenty of seat movement. Now to mount the shelving. I'm re-using my System Edstrom gear (now 18 years old and still like new.) Usually I through-bolt or rivnut the bases of the racks to the metal van floor. This time, since the wood floor is so thoroughly secured, I'll just use T-nuts under the plywood. That will save a ton of work. Probably won't have to remove the floor after I get the rack positions set and the holes drilled, just lift it up enough to slip in the T-nuts. One interesting thing on build quality, the wire to the side door plunger switch was mis-routed and very nearly crushed in half by the factory sill. Easy fix. Still looking for a DC source in the back of the van. I'm probably going to use the overhead light circuit. I'll meter to be certain, but with my gear and all the lights burning, the load should still be safely under it's 10A rating.

Ima put a padded toilet lid cover on mine. lol. Actually... hmmm...

Need a 12v source in the back of my 3500 cargo that comes on with the ignition in run or accessory. I found a red wire poking out the split tubing that runs the length of the cargo area. Not sure if they put that there for me to exploit or just oopsed and got a knot in the cable. I'll test it, but was wondering if someone had a favorite tap-in point.